Kombo - a new whisky destination in Trondheim
A few days back I was in Trondheim on business, and happened upon the new rooftop bar and restaurant Kombo - av Klempe og Dons. They opened this February and seem to have done something right, because they are more or less full every day of the week. The two guys behind Kombo are chef Håvard Klempe and bartender Jørgen Dons.
On their web page you will find statements like “Your go-to place for everyday luxury and good vibes”, and “Here we guarantee you’ll find food and cocktails matched like nothing you’ve tried before”. So, of course my interest was piqued! Also, I knew from previous encounters with Jørgen that he has a black belt in cocktail making, and shares my love of whisky.
So off we went, in search of this warm oasis in the somewhat chilly Trondheim afternoon.
The entrance can be found through this passageway at Nordregate 12.
In the backyard you’ll find this elevator that takes you straight up to the rooftop restaurant and bar Kombo av Klempe & Dons. Very Tokyo-esque vibe!
The bar by the entrance to the surprisingly large restaurant.
Upon entering Kombo, we had the bar right in front of us, a very impressive “wall of whisky” on the right. I’ll get back to this magical wall later. Beyond this wall and to the right we had the kitchen and the main part of the restaurant.
The wall exhibiting most (but not all) of the whisky available. More on this later!
We were placed at the “chef’s table” right at the kitchen, which was open to the restaurant proper. Right in front of us we had the evening’s waffle production area.
We got seats at the “chef’s table”, with full view of the kitchen. Loved the action and the professional calm of the staff!
We ordered the four course dinner with matching bespoke cocktails. Little did we know that we were in for an unforgettable sensory experience. The cocktails and dishes really, truly did match very well. The exceptional highlight in that regard was the carpaccio of deer and beets served with a cocktail they had informally named the “beet feast”. The taste of the dish and the cocktail merged, morphed into and enhanced each other perfectly. Had they bottled and sold this cocktail by the bottle I would have bought a case of it - regardless of price! Just thinking about this cocktails gives me goosebumps.
We had an amazing four course dinner.
Having spent a long time savoring the meal and the cocktails, it was time to explore the aforementioned wall of whisky. As I said they have only been open since February of this year, but their collection of (mainly) whisky and other quality spirits is already very, very impressive.
Not all thei whisky was on display on this wall, but a fair bit of the goodies was. I’ll give brief comments to what was on display below.
First off, one of two displays dedicated to Japanese whisky. Who else do you know that have five different bottlings of Shizuoka on display? And they had a couple of additional bottlings from them as well. Also very impressive selection of Suntory bottlings of Hakushu, Hibiki and Yamazaki. A few bottles of Chichibu as well, of course!
The first display of Japanese whisky.
Then the American display. Oh, my! Michter’s 25 YO?! Rare and cool bottlings of Wild Turkey, Maker’s Mark. Russel’s Reserve, Weller etc. They had a lot more American whiskey in the bar as well.
The treasure trove of American whiskey.
Naturally they also had a few bottles of quality Scotch. Daftmill is quickly becoming a personal favourite. Old Caol Ila, Macallan, Mortlach to name a few.
Scotch delight!
This display was a bit mix and match, but held an impressive selection of rums, mezcal, chartreuse and more.
Rum and other yummy spirits.
Finally, the second display of Japanese whisky, this one dedicated to Nikka. Several vintage Coffey Grain releases, old bottlings of both Yoichi and Miyagikyo, and a couple of surprises not (typically) available outside of Japan.
More Japanese whisky.
I dare say that Kombo already has what is probably the most exciting and comprehensive selection of Japanese whisky on offer in Norway. Now, I know that Dr. Jekyll’s Pub in Oslo, my favorite bar, has a lot of Japanese whisky as well, but a lot is very old, very expensive, and very much locked away.
I started off with tasting a private cask from Shizuoka. Brilliant stuff!
Love the chance to try a private cask bottling from Shizuoka; this one for Bar Agréable. I guess it’s good to have friends in strange places!
Then I got to try a brand new entry level Nikka for the Japanese market, the Nikka Frontier. Bottled at 48%, and a world blend of whisky from Miyagikyo, Yoici and Ben Nevis. A peated creation that punches well above its weight class!
The new Nikka Frontier.
Onwards to more Shizuoka; this one distilled on their K pot still (former Karuizawa distillery pot still). This is such great whisky, and it is still so young! Watch out, world of whisky!
The Shizuoka 100% Imported Barley First Edition, distilled on pot still K (ex-Karuizawa). Whoah, this is special!
OK, then. It was time for the best America has on offer (let’s not think about all that other dreadful goings on). I started with the Wild Turkey Voyage. The Wild Turkey is sort of an unsung hero in the world of bourbon to me. Most people know of it, and likewise most people dismiss it as too available and thus boring, without taking the time to explore it. Well. they should explore it! The Wild Turkey Voyage has been matured for 10 years, and finished in Jamaican rum casks. Bottled at an ABV of 53%. I really loved the deep sweetness here.
The Wild Turkey Voyage.
Onwards and upwards, this time heading for Maker’s Mark, another brand that many people poo-poo for no good reason. The Maker’s Mark Cellar Aged 2024 Release is an excellent example of why people should stop that poo-pooing this instant. Matured for 12 years, this is an amazing bourbon clocking in at an ABV of 59.7%.
I present the Maker’s Mark Cellar Aged 2024 Release.
By this time my palate was starting to show some fatigue, so Jørgen suggested switching to cask matured Japanese gin! Well, why the heck not. He proceed to present this lovely pair of Ki No Bi Japanese gins from Kyoto. Matured in whisky casks from Karuizawa and Chichibu! Japanese whisky nerds will nod with appreciation at the labels and the alternative spelling of the gin distillery name here - Ki Noh Bi.
What’s not to like about gin matured in casks from Karuizawa and Chichibu?!
I better also mention that the prices for the drams were very reasonable, and you can order either 2 cl or 4 cl drams.
After this evening of sensory overload I know one thing for certain - I will be back!
Sláinte!
- Thomas
PS! Thanks to Jørgen, Tobias (the bar manager), and Birk (our waiter) also for making this an unforgettable experience.